How to Alter a Dress for Petites

As a petite woman, you’ve likely encountered the frustration of trying on a dress that looks perfect on the rack, but feels and looks a little off when you wear it. Dresses that are designed for average-height women often pose unique challenges for petites. Areas like the shoulders, neckline, sides, and hem typically need tailoring to better suit your shorter frame.

Whether you’re a beginner in sewing or someone with intermediate skills, we’ll explain the level of expertise required for each alteration, the materials you’ll need, and step-by-step instructions for tailoring a dress. Let’s get started on learning how to alter a dress for petites!

How to Alter the Neckline of a Dress

Necklines on dresses can often fall too low on petite women, making them look disproportionate and sometimes exposing more skin than intended. Shortening or adjusting the neckline brings balance to the upper half of the body.

Simple neckline adjustments (like raising the neckline) are beginner-friendly, but more complex changes (like reshaping) require more skill.

Materials Needed:

• Needle and thread or sewing machine
• Fabric scissors
• Measuring tape
• Pins
• Seam ripper

Steps:

1. Measure and Mark: Try on the dress and determine how much you want to raise or adjust the neckline. Mark this with chalk or pins.
2. Remove the Facing or Bias Tape: If your dress has a facing or bias tape along the neckline, use a seam ripper to remove it.
3. Pin and Sew: Fold the neckline fabric inside to the desired height and pin it securely. Sew along the new edge, ensuring a smooth, even line.
4. Replace Facing or Bias Tape: Once the new neckline is sewn, replace the original facing or bias tape, or create a new facing to cover the raw edges.
5. Press and Try On: Press the new neckline to smooth out any wrinkles and try the dress on to confirm the fit.

How to Take in the Sides of a Dress

Petite women often find that dresses are too wide around the waist, torso, bust, or hips, making the dress look shapeless. By taking in the sides, you can create a more tailored, streamlined fit that flatters your figure.

Taking in the sides is a relatively easy alteration, but it’s important to maintain balance between both sides of the dress.

Materials Needed:

• Sewing machine
• Pins
• Measuring tape
• Scissors
• Seam ripper

Steps:

1. Pin and Measure: Put the dress on inside out and pin along the sides where you want to take it in. Use a measuring tape to ensure that both sides are symmetrical.
2. Sew: Using a straight stitch, sew along the pinned lines. Be sure to start from the armhole or neckline and work downwards for a clean finish.
3. Trim and Finish: Once sewn, trim any excess fabric. Press the new seams flat with an iron.
4. Try On: Try the dress on to check the fit and adjust if necessary.

How to Alter the Shoulders of a Dress

Shoulders are the foundation of how a dress hangs on your body. For petites, shoulder seams can sit too low, causing the dress to sag and making it look like you’re wearing something too big. The shoulders are also wider or longer, which can give a droopy appearance. Adjusting the shoulders can lift the entire dress, improving how it fits overall.

This alteration requires precision and some experience with garment construction.

Materials Needed:

• Sewing machine
• Seam ripper
• Pins
• Measuring tape
• Matching thread
• Scissors

Steps:

1. Measure: Try the dress on and determine how much fabric needs to be taken in. Pinch the fabric at the top of the shoulders and use a measuring tape to find the amount of excess.
2. Rip the Seams: Using a seam ripper, carefully remove the stitches that connect the shoulder seam. Be cautious not to damage the fabric.
3. Pin and Sew: Fold the fabric inside to shorten the shoulders by your measured amount. Pin the fabric in place and sew along the original seam line, ensuring you maintain the symmetry on both sides.
4. Press and Finish: Once sewn, press the seams with an iron for a clean finish. Try the dress on again to make sure it fits properly.

How to Shorten the Bottom Hem of a Dress

Dresses designed for average-height women often fall too long on petites, creating a disproportionate look. They often hit below the knees or pool at the ankles when they should fall at more flattering lengths like above the knee or mid-calf.

Hemming a dress is one of the easiest alterations for a beginner to tackle.

Materials Needed:

• Measuring tape
• Pins
• Sewing machine or needle and thread
• Scissors
• Fabric chalk or marker

Steps:

1. Measure the Desired Length: Try the dress on and determine how much length to remove. Mark this length with fabric chalk.
2. Pin and Cut: Pin the new hemline and carefully cut off the excess fabric.
3. Fold and Sew: Fold the hem twice to hide the raw edge and pin it in place. Sew along the folded edge using a straight stitch.
4. Press and Try On: Iron the new hem for a crisp finish, then try on the dress to ensure the length is correct.

While some dress alterations are easy to DIY, more complex adjustments, such as reshaping necklines or taking in structured garments, are best left to a professional tailor. If you’re dealing with delicate fabrics, intricate designs, or a garment that has sentimental value, it’s worth investing in a tailor’s expertise. On the other hand, simpler tasks like hemming and taking in side seams are approachable projects for someone with basic sewing skills. Ultimately, knowing your comfort level and the difficulty of the alteration will help you decide whether to go DIY or consult a professional.